As you stroll through the village of Nozawa Onsen, you’ll come across a place where steam rises and the scent of sulfur lingers in the air. This is “Ogama,” one of the 30 or so hot spring sources in Nozawa Onsen, designated as a national natural monument. The boiling water, nearly 100 degrees Celsius, gushes forth constantly.
The name “Ogama” is said to originate from the practice of soaking harvested hemp in these hot spring pools to make the skin easier to peel off. The site consists of five large pools: Ogama, Marugama, Yudegama, Takenoshigama, and Shitagama, known as one of the most picturesque spots in Nozawa Onsen.
When I visited in mid-November, I was lucky enough to witness the local people washing Nozawa vegetables, a practice called “O-sai-arai.” While the area around Ogama is chained off and entry is prohibited for the general public, local residents are allowed to use it as part of their daily life.
Nozawa Onsen is the birthplace of Nozawa vegetables, and washing them in the hot spring water is said to keep insects away and give them just the right softness. It also makes them more flavorful. This scene can be observed year-round, and it’s impossible not to feel the close connection between the hot springs and daily life.
Ogama is also known as the “Kitchen of Nozawa Onsen,” and is used not only for washing Nozawa vegetables but also for boiling other vegetables such as komatsuna. When I visited, a local person cheerfully told me, “It’s not just Nozawa vegetables. We boil komatsuna and all sorts of other vegetables here.”
The onsen tamago (hot spring egg) served at the ryokan’s breakfast was also boiled at Ogama that very morning. Having observed the site, I truly appreciated the experience. While it may not be a jaw-dropping spectacle, the sight of this hot spring facility so closely connected to daily life gives you a sense of Nozawa Onsen’s unique charm.
The soft-serve ice cream at the souvenir shop near Ogama is known for its rich flavor. If you get tired from strolling around the hot spring town, it’s a recommended stop.
If you visit Nozawa Onsen, be sure to make your way to Ogama. Regardless of the season, you may be able to see local people washing and boiling vegetables. Immerse yourself in the steam and the scent of sulfur, and enjoy the scenery where hot springs and daily life intertwine. It’s sure to be a special experience that gives you a sense of Nozawa Onsen’s unique charm.